Cover Thickets
Creation of cover thickets is recommended for
properties lacking briar patches and clumps of shrubs or young trees. Good cover
thickets are 1\4 acre or less in size and consist of plants such as blackberry,
sumac, wild plum, dogwood, and cedar or pine trees. These and similar plants
provide valuable protection for wildlife from strong winds, sleet and snow if
their limbs or trunks create a very dense area of woody vegetation at ground
level rising to several feet above the ground. Such areas also allow easy
movement of small wildlife but restrict the movement of larger predators and
eliminate possible attack from above by hawks or owls.
The steps to creating a good wildlife cover
thicket are simple. 1) The trees or shrubs must be planted closely together to
be useful for wildlife as protection from predators and weather. If planted no
further than 6 feet apart, many types of briars, shrubs and trees soon grow into
a thicket. 2) The area planted as a cover thicket should be no less than 50 feet
wide. Cover thickets that are too small or too narrow offer little protection
for wildlife. 3) The planting pattern must be one that is easily created and
maintained.
Placement
Wildlife cover thickets are needed
everywhere a landowner desires to have animals such as rabbits, quail and rufous-sided
towhees. Small wildlife such as these need cover thickets to be available within
a maximum of 100 yards from where they are at any time. This means that in large
open areas the distance between cover thickets should be no greater than 200
yards in any direction. Just creating one cover thicket on your land will help,
but it may not be enough. If one cover thicket is necessary, it is likely that
others may be needed in different locations.
You cannot have too many cover thickets, but on most Kentucky farms, there are
far too few. The ideal situation is to have cover thickets properly spaced and
connected to one another by strips of grasses or shrubs (wildlife corridors*).
Planting
At the end of this article are four patterns that
may be helpful in planning the location of wildlife cover thickets and
positioning individual seedlings. Using one of these examples as a pattern, a
cover thicket requires only 1/5 of an acre of land or less and 200 seedlings.
(Note: The circular pattern requires 205 seedlings or 200 if you leave 5 out of
the center to construct a brushpile* for additional cover.)
There are several things to consider when
deciding which shape to use. Circular areas are simpler to mow around with a
tractor than square ones. If livestock are present, cover thickets must be
fenced. Square areas are easier to erect a fence around than circular ones.
Sometimes the only area available for a cover thicket is a field corner. A
triangular shape is most practical in that situation. Corner areas in fenced
pastures require placement of additional fence along the open side to provide
the necessary protection from livestock. Rectangular cover thickets are easily
placed along fences or as a border between two fields. Conforming to shapes
shown in the drawings is not important. Nature seldom produces wildlife habitat
that is regularly shaped. You could make the lines of your planting uneven if
you desire a "wilder" appearance.
Symbols X and O in each example show the use of
two different species of trees and shrubs. Depending on what is needed in the
area, type X may be a shrub species such as dogwood, wild plum or redbud. Type O
may be evergreen trees. If thick shrub cover is what is really missing, the X’s
could be dogwoods and the O’s wild plums. The possibilities are numerous. In
some cases only one species may be recommended. Then you would ignore the
different locations for X’s and O’s.
Placement of the same tree or shrub species in a
row or in a set pattern may not create the "wild" or
"natural" look many people desire. To get a more natural look,
randomly mix the species while planting. It is a good idea, however, if planting
shrubs and taller trees together in a cover thicket to plant the shorter shrub
species on the outside of the planting and the taller trees in the inner rows.
(Example, plant Virginia pine on the inside and silky dogwood in the outside
rows.) This will help ensure the shorter shrubs receive necessary sunlight after
the trees have grown.
Before planting, some site preparation may be
necessary in order to get good survival of your seedlings. Depending on site
conditions, mowing or spraying herbicide may be required. Refer to Habitat
How-to: Planting Trees and Shrubs for more information on preparing a site
for planting and the right way to plant seedlings.
For a completely "natural" approach,
you may choose to allow an area to grow into a cover thicket without planting.
This method of natural revegetation* is easy and cost-free but may take longer
to achieve the desired results.
Maintenance
Maintaining a cover thicket includes protecting
it from mowing and livestock. It is OK to mow up to the edge of a thicket to
keep it from spreading but you certainly do not want someone to accidentally mow
through it. Before mowing, mark the outside edges of your cover thicket with
flags, stakes or posts to prevent accidental damage to small seedlings. If
livestock are present, fences must be kept up to prevent damage to seedlings.
After a cover thicket has been planted just allow
it to grow. As time goes by some additional plants may naturally show up. Plants
such as blackberry, sumac and red cedar growing in your cover thicket will just
improve its cover value. But, after a few years, begin to keep an eye open for
the possible need for maintenance. Eventually, cover thickets outgrow their
usefulness as dense vegetative cover. As shrubs and trees mature, fewer limbs
remain available at ground level to serve as thick protection for wildlife from
severe weather and predators. Tall trees growing in or near the cover thicket
will shade out smaller vines and shrubs thus reducing the amount of thick cover.
Maintenance of cover thickets will require cutting of larger trees or shrubs.
You should begin by cutting out all tall tree species as they naturally begin to
grow in your thicket. Depending on your area, tree species such as ash, maple
and locust may eventually take over if not controlled. If the cover thicket was
planted to dogwood or wild plum you may need to cut a few of the largest ones
down at ground level after 8 to 10 years. Those species will quickly sprout back
without replanting. If your thicket was planted into evergreen species you may
also want to cut some down every couple of years. Those species will not
re-sprout if cut at ground level and you should plant a new one in place of each
one you cut. You may want use the cut evergreen trees as a brush pile.* (Note:
There is nothing wrong with removing a couple of Christmas trees from your
evergreen cover thicket each year.)
You may decide not to maintain your cover
thickets at all. As they grow tall they will be used by other wildlife. However,
if you allow them to grow beyond the stage of useful low-level cover, you must
create new cover thickets nearby so wildlife will still have that critical
habitat available to them.
Sources of shrubs and trees
The least expensive source for many of the
recommended species of shrubs and trees is the Kentucky Division of Forestry (KDF).
Seedlings should be ordered from KDF well in advance to assure availability.
Planting (dibble) bars and planting machines (similar to tobacco setters) may be
available from KDF.
Figure 1.
14 ROWS OF TREES SPACED 6' BY 6'
IS A SQUARE 78' BY 78' AND EQUALS
0.14 ACRE OR ABOUT 1/7 ACRE
96 TYPE "X" TREES
100
TYPE "O" TREES
196 TOTAL
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
Figure 2.
TWO SIDES HAVING 19 ROWS OF TREES
AT 6' SPACINGS EQUALS A TRIANGLE
108' BY 108' BY 154' OR 1/8 ACRE.
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O X X
X X O O O O X X
99 TYPE "X’ TREES
X X O O O X X
90
TYPE "O"TREES
189 TOTAL
X X O O X X
X X O X X
X X X X
X X X
X X
X
Figure 3.
A CIRCLE 96' IN DIAMETER HAVING
TREES SPACED
6' BY 6' COVERS 0.17 ACRE OR
ABOUT 1/6 ACRE.
100 TYPE "X" TREES
100
TYPE "O" TREES (LEAVING AN OPENING IN MIDDLE FOR BRUSHPILE)
200 TOTAL
X X X
X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X O O O O O O O X X X
X X O O O O O O O O O X X
X X X O O O O O O O O O X X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X X O O O O O O O O O O X X X
X X X O O O O O O O O X X X
X X X O O O O O O O O O O X X X
X X O O O O O O O O O O O X X
X X X O O O O O O O O O X X X
X X O O O O O O O O O X X
X X X O O O O O O O X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X
X X X
Figure 4.
A RECTANGLE OF 20 ROWS WITH 10
TREES PER ROW SPACED 6' BY 6' MEASURES 54' BY 114' AND EQUALS 0.14 ACRE OR ABOUT
1/7 OF AN ACRE.
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X O O X X X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
100
TYPE "X" Trees
100 TYPE
"O" Trees
X X O O O O O O X X
200
TOTAL Trees
X X O O O O O O X X
X X O O O O O O X X
X X X X X X X X X X
*Related Habitat How-To
references: